Joachim Rangø Andersen, the manager at Troll Restaurant, squints towards the sporadic sun breaking through the cloud cover. The restaurant gem at Fosenkaia has, since its opening over six years ago, established itself as an essential part of Trondheim’s culinary culture.
– I believe the explanation is simple – we have unwaveringly adhered to our core philosophy: Norwegian food in a devilishly bold way, asserts Andersen.
Local and accessible
The clock has just passed 12. Inside the kitchen, the staff is busy prepping food. The doors open at 4 PM. The ingredients are almost exclusively sourced locally. For example, the fish is primarily caught in the nearby neighbor – Trondheimsfjorden.
– We get it from the fjord fishermen who deliver to Ila Fiskemottak. We’re talking about fresh top-quality ingredients. Straight from the fjord to the tables here at Fosenkaia. Not fish that has gone on a round trip to Oslo, been repackaged, and frozen, he explains.
The same goes for meat, fruits, and vegetables. At least mostly.
– We prefer local producers in everything we do, but we’re not completely religious about it. We’re more than willing to stretch across county borders in the south and north if the quality meets our standards, Andersen adds.
Another unique aspect of Troll is the pricing they have maintained since opening their doors.
– Being accessible is part of our philosophy. We want the «daily» – whether it’s a three-course or a five-course meal – to be affordable for the average wallet.
– So, what’s on the menu right now?
– The ingredients on the menu are, as always, 100 percent Norwegian and as locally sourced as possible. We have put together a special à la carte menu for the summer, meant to be enjoyed when the summer weather arrives. We can tempt you with plenty of seafood, including mussels, scallops, and minke whale. As usual, we also offer three- and five-course meals at a pleasant price. Our skilled chefs play with the best ingredients and seasonal produce available that day, he explains.
Incredibly delicious food
If you use TripAdvisor as a benchmark, Troll Restaurant excels. With a score of 4.5 out of 5 stars based on nearly 600 restaurant reviews, they stand out at the top in Trondheim.
Just listen to what guests are saying on TripAdvisor:
- «Absolutely amazing food! Every dish was a culinary delight.»
- «The flavors and presentation were exceptional. A true gastronomic experience!»
- «The staff was friendly and attentive, and the atmosphere was cozy and inviting.»
- «The attention to detail and quality of ingredients were outstanding.»
- «I highly recommend Troll Restaurant for a memorable dining experience in Trondheim.»
These positive reviews highlight the exceptional quality and taste of the food at Troll Restaurant.
Thinking outside the box
– It’s always nice to receive positive feedback. That being said, we are receptive to both criticism and praise. We can always improve on what we do,» says Andersen, who took over the management of Troll at the end of 2020. He previously held the position of restaurant manager at To Rom og Kjøkken.
– I had been there for 12 years. I thought it was time for a new pasture and new challenges,» he smiles.
Troll Restaurant was started by Sveinung Sundli and Lars Laurentius Paulsen almost six years ago – two cultural personalities who have made a significant impact on the food and cultural scene in Trondheim over the years.
– They are wonderful, strong-willed people who dare to think outside the box, he believes.
Laurentius Paulsen has now taken over the management of the restaurant Gubalari, located in the newly opened K.U.K (Kjøpmannsgata Ung Kunst).
Fosenkaia is, in many ways, a small oasis in the city center. The canal keeps Fjordgata and the rest of the city at a short but comfortable distance. On the other side, Trondheimsfjorden rests calm and serene.
– You can relax and unwind a bit here on Fosenkaia,» says Andersen as he walks past the premises of Kystlaget Trondhjem. Coastal culture thrives here. In the water, you’ll find small boats, sailboats, and even some more modern ones, coexisting with the old and venerable vessels.
At the end of Fosenkaia is Kafe Skuret, which is also operated by the people behind Troll Restaurant.
– I usually say that summer begins when we open our doors here in May and ends when we close late in September,» he explains.
For many, Skuret is synonymous with ice-cold beer and perhaps the city’s best fish soup. Additionally, over the years, the place has established itself as one of Trondheim’s most exciting venues during the summer season.
«I think it has a lot to do with the diversity of our programs. We can have rap with OnklP one weekend, hard rock with Black Debbath the next, and then have Ole Paus perform the following weekend,» Andersen says, turning his face towards a gentle breeze from the fjord.
It’s on days like these that life truly feels playful.